Andy Burnham, widely expected to become the next Prime Minister, is facing a unique sartorial dilemma as his move into Downing Street draws closer. While grappling with pressing national and international issues such as the cost of living and defence funding, the question of his distinctive casual wardrobe is also coming into focus. His journey from Manchester Piccadilly to London Euston recently offered a glimpse into this potential shift, as he boarded the train in his signature dark T-shirt and Adidas trainers, only to emerge in London in a suit, later adding a tie for his appearance in Parliament.
This wardrobe change has sparked debate: was it a symbolic gesture signalling a more formal approach to the premiership, or a one-off adjustment for a specific Westminster engagement? Burnham's 'Manchester clothes'—a style described by Drapers Magazine features editor Emma Finamore as 'aspirational but attainable' and 'smart but less formal'—have become integral to his political brand. This look, often featuring Harrington jackets, Uniqlo polo shirts, and Clarks Wallabees, deliberately contrasts with the traditional suit-and-tie uniform prevalent in SW1.
However, a return to more formal attire would not be entirely new for Burnham. Prior to 2020, during his earlier career as an MP and in his second Labour leadership campaign in 2015, he was more frequently seen in a suit. He notably adopted a more relaxed style after leaving Westminster, telling The Guardian in 2022 that he realised he no longer 'had to do this any more' regarding formal wear, embracing the clothes he would wear 'to the match at weekends.' His Howick jacket, famously worn during the Covid lockdown debates, even holds a place in Manchester's People's History Museum.
The practicalities of the Prime Minister's role will undoubtedly influence Burnham's choices. Sir Lindsay Hoyle, the current Speaker of the House of Commons, has reinstated stricter dress codes, famously stating that MPs, regardless of their regional standing, will need to wear a shirt and tie to be called upon. Furthermore, international diplomatic settings, such as meetings at the White House, typically demand a more formal appearance. While figures like Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky have adopted military-style clothing for specific reasons, such choices can sometimes lead to diplomatic friction.
Despite these pressures, experts like Emma Finamore believe Burnham is 'savvy enough' to navigate these expectations. She suggests he will 'abide by dress codes' where necessary but is unlikely to revert fully to his pre-2020 style, having seemingly 'found his political identity and also his style as mayor of Greater Manchester.' The challenge for Burnham will be to adapt to the requirements of No 10 and international diplomacy while maintaining the authentic, accessible image that has resonated with many voters.