For decades, the ocean represented a monster to UK features writer Noo Saro-Wiwa – a vast, terrifying force she avoided at all costs. But this summer, in the turquoise waters of Indonesia’s Mentawai archipelago, she finally faced her fear head-on by learning to surf. The journey, she says, rewired not only her relationship with the sea but also her approach to life’s other daunting challenges.
Saro-Wiwa’s aquaphobia was rooted in both psychology and physiology. Watching Steven Spielberg’s Jaws as a child left a lasting impression, while a naturally negative buoyancy meant she struggled to stay afloat without exhausting herself. For years she watched from the shore as friends swam and surfed, until curiosity eventually trumped anxiety. At age 40, she began snorkelling in calm waters in the Philippines, Antigua, Kenya and the Maldives – but waves still terrified her.
The breakthrough came during a work assignment in Indonesia’s remote Mentawai islands, south of Sumatra. The Indian Ocean there produces consistent, surfable waves, and the family-run Aloita Resort caters to beginners as well as seasoned boarders. With a Spanish instructor, Victoria Lvova, and a photographer on hand, Saro-Wiwa took her first lesson. Wearing a life jacket for reassurance, she learned to paddle, pop up and ride small waves – an experience she describes as liberating.
For UK travellers inspired by this story, Indonesia remains a popular long-haul destination, with direct flights from London to Bali and Jakarta available from around £500 return. British passport holders can enter Indonesia visa-free for up to 30 days for tourism, though a visa-on-arrival (costing approximately £30) is also available. The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO) currently advises checking local travel advisories for remote areas such as the Mentawai islands, and recommends comprehensive travel insurance that covers water sports and emergency medical evacuation.
Saro-Wiwa’s broader takeaway is that facing the ocean taught her to confront other fears – from filling out complex forms to staring at a blank page. “Everything you’ve ever wanted is sitting on the other side of fear,” she reflects, quoting philosopher George Addair. For British readers who share her trepidation, the message is clear: a life jacket, a patient instructor and a willingness to try can open up a world of adventure.