A lone cyclist navigated the vast expanse of Sutherland, eschewing the popular North Coast 500 for roads less travelled and forgotten hill tracks. The decision allowed Jack Thurston to immerse himself in Britain's most remote terrain, where encounters with other travellers are rare. His forthcoming book chronicles this journey through Scotland's wilds.
Starting in Lairg, known as the 'crossroads of the north', Thurston cycled into Glen Cassley, leaving paved roads for rough 4x4 tracks. A brief respite came courtesy of a smooth stretch of tarmac leading to a dam and hydroelectric generator, before he faced the challenge of Bealach nam Meirleach – 'Thief's Pass' – an ancient drovers' road with a history of cattle rustling.
A poignant stop was made at Dun Dornaigil, an Iron Age broch over 2,000 years old. The cyclists enjoyed breakfast without a single passing car, highlighting the region's untouched nature. Altnaharra, famous for its record-breaking cold temperatures in December 1995, presented itself as lush and green under clear skies, with a hotel providing insight into the area's past.
The route continued along Thomas Telford's roads across the western edge of the Flow Country, an expanse described by Walter Scott as 'the immeasurable wilds'. Despite disorienting horizons, closer inspection revealed vibrant microcosms of delicate flowers and lichens along the verges. This subtle beauty contrasted with the grand landscape.
Thurston's journey concluded in Tongue, a coastal village marking the culmination of his odyssey. The expedition through Sutherland underscores the region's profound beauty and challenging nature, offering a unique perspective often overlooked by those seeking more accessible routes. It champions exploration and the rewards of venturing off the beaten path.