With much of France sweltering under a summer heatwave, British holidaymakers are discovering a cooler alternative in the Marais Poitevin, an immense stretch of wetlands in western France. Known as 'Green Venice' (La Venise Verte), this network of more than 8,000 kilometres of muddy canals stretches from the medieval city of Niort to the Atlantic Ocean, straddling the Vendée and Charente-Maritime regions. Temperatures inland have been so high that even sunflower fields have appeared to wilt, driving visitors to seek shade among the poplar trees that line the waterways.
The Marais Poitevin covers more than 200,000 hectares and offers a slower pace of life. Flat-bottomed boats called plates are the main mode of transport, and even the local postman delivers mail by boat. Visitors can hire a plate with a boatman for a guided cruise or explore independently by canoe, stand-up paddleboard, bike or horseback. The canals are shaded, and the water provides a refreshing respite from the heat, though the mud stays at the bottom, leaving swimmers reasonably clean.
The region has a rich history: thousands of years ago it lay under the Atlantic Ocean, and medieval monks drained the channels and built dykes to protect their monasteries. Vestiges of abbeys such as l'Abbaye de Maillezais and Abbaye Royale in St Michel-en-l'Herm still stand. Today, tourism sustains the local economy, and life moves slowly between small boatmen's villages like Le Mazeau and Coulon, the capital of Green Venice. Restaurants such as Au Bord de l'Eau serve local dishes like caramelised onion and goat's cheese tart under willow trees.
For British travellers, the Marais Poitevin is accessible from several UK airports. Direct flights to Poitiers, Nantes and La Rochelle are available from regional airports including Bristol, Southampton and London Gatwick, with return fares typically ranging from £80 to £150 depending on the season. Car hire is recommended for exploring the area, though many visitors prefer to park and use bikes or boats. The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCO) currently advises checking travel advice for France, particularly regarding heatwave warnings and any disruption to transport.
Travel insurance is essential for UK visitors. Policies should cover medical expenses, as the European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) may not cover all costs post-Brexit, and many insurers recommend a comprehensive policy that includes cancellation and baggage cover. The FCO also advises registering with the nearest British consulate in the event of extreme weather. For those looking to beat both the heat and the crowds, the Marais Poitevin offers a uniquely peaceful escape, with temperatures often a few degrees cooler than inland cities and a landscape that feels a world away from the tourist hotspots of the Riviera or Paris.