Toronto's downtown skyline is often associated with cutting-edge architecture and cosmopolitan flair, but on a rooftop farm nestled among the towering buildings lies a testament to the power of cultural heritage. Nicole Austin, a Jamaican-born farmer at the forefront of this project, has successfully cultivated an heirloom okra variety known as 'white velvet', bridging continents and connecting diasporic communities across North America.
Austin's journey into farming was far from predictable, having initially pursued degrees in geology and planning to become a registered dietitian. However, her work at Toronto Metropolitan University's (TMU) Centre for Studies in Food Security shifted her focus towards food justice and advocacy. Today, she champions the crucial role of small-scale and Black farmers in preserving and sharing culturally significant foods – often overlooked yet vital to community cohesion.
The 'white velvet' okra, a cherished heirloom variety with fuzzy pods, holds within it a remarkable story of resilience and tradition. Having originated in the American South, its journey to a Toronto rooftop farm spanning over 1,000 miles and more than a century speaks volumes about its enduring appeal and the dedication of seed growers.
In 2021, Austin spearheaded the Black Food Sovereignty Initiative at TMU's Urban Farm. This ambitious programme seeks to empower Black residents in the greater Toronto area by cultivating and sharing culturally relevant foods – with okra being a natural choice due to its central role in West African and Jamaican cuisine. While less common in Canada due to climate and demographic factors, research suggests that okra is highly sought after among the three largest ethnic groups in the Toronto metropolitan area.
Austin sources her 'white velvet' okra seeds from Truelove Seeds, a US-based company specialising in African diaspora seed collections. By doing so, she ensures not only the farm's food offerings but also contributes to the preservation of diverse food histories – a powerful reminder that food can transcend geographical and generational divides, fostering community and celebrating heritage.