Jeremy Chan, the visionary chef behind the acclaimed London restaurant Ikoyi, has offered a rare insight into his intensely personal approach to fine dining, revealing that he considers eating his own culinary creations 'forbidden'. This unusual stance is part of a broader philosophy that sees him also avoid dining at other chefs' establishments, a practice he maintains to safeguard the originality of his artistic vision.
Ikoyi, which first opened its doors in St James's Market in 2017 before moving to its current location at 180 The Strand, quickly distinguished itself in London's competitive culinary scene. It earned one, then two prestigious Michelin stars, celebrated for its unique West African-inspired flavours and an immersive dining experience. The restaurant's design, conceived entirely by Chan, features a dimly lit, atmospheric dining room engineered to operate with machine-like precision, where every element, from cutlery to the playlist, is meticulously curated.
Chan's dedication to an undiluted creative process extends to his sources of inspiration, which he draws from well outside the traditional culinary sphere. He cites intense genres of music, such as death metal and black metal, for their 'machine-like brutality' and 'precision', along with cinema, as significant influences. He views these art forms as embodying the spirit of consistency, labour, and precise execution that he strives for in his kitchen.
The dishes at Ikoyi are renowned for their intricate complexity and striking presentation, often described as resembling museum exhibits. Examples include a caramelised pork jowl in a spiced broth, a mushroom tarte with 100-day aged beef, and the celebrated mussel and saffron custard with caviar and razor clam. Each dish is designed to offer a slow, deliberate unveiling of unusual and decadent flavours, from umami and subtle sweetness to lingering salinity.
Despite the meticulous thought invested in each creation, Chan expresses little concern about how guests interpret his food. His primary focus remains on the diner's overall happiness and the final impression, rather than whether every aspect of a dish is universally adored. He likens the experience to watching a film, where the audience doesn't need to love every scene but should recognise the distinct identity and passion of its creator. This philosophy underscores a commitment to artistic integrity above all else, ensuring Ikoyi remains a singular presence in the fine dining world.