KOL's arrival in Marylebone marked a seismic shift in London's vibrant food scene, as Chef Santiago Lastra boldly put his own spin on Mexico's rich culinary heritage. This Michelin-starred restaurant is the brainchild of Lastra and his team, who've successfully transplanted the essence of Mexican cuisine into British soil – with some game-changing tweaks.
Lastra's innovative approach hinges on an unapologetic reliance on local ingredients, a far cry from traditional Mexican staples. Don't get him wrong – chillies and corn are cornerstones, irreplaceable like sand on a beach without them. But Lastra's philosophy is built on using British produce as the foundation, resulting in a tasting menu that pays homage to Mexico's greatest dishes while feeling eerily new.
With stints at Mugaritz and Noma under his belt, Lastra's cooking style is all about thinking outside the box and coaxing hidden potential from ingredients. Case in point: short rib quesadillas on the bone, elevated with the deep, earthy flavour of Wiltshire truffle; or scallop ceviche getting its zing not from lime, but a zesty mix of rhubarb and gooseberry – adding unique textures and floral notes to boot.
One of KOL's showstoppers is its langoustine and chipotle taco, cleverly substituting traditional souring agents with the bright orange hue of sea buckthorn. And here's the kicker: a meal at KOL can unfold without coriander, lime or avocados – ingredients often considered non-negotiables in Mexican cuisine. This is Lastra's genius at play.
Since its opening, KOL has been lauded with a Michelin star and a spot on the World's Top 50 Best Restaurants list. Its impact has sent shockwaves through London's Mexican food scene, challenging everything we thought we knew about this beloved cuisine. Lastra spotted an opportunity in the city's cosmopolitan vibe, its well-travelled crowd and growing appetite for diverse flavours – and seized it with both hands.
The restaurant itself is a masterclass in atmosphere, with a central kitchen and low-slung leather booths evoking a sepia-toned Mexico. The culinary journey is a delicate balancing act between familiar echoes of Mexican flavours and bold, unexpected twists – one that's captivated critics and diners alike.