Bonheur, the new Mayfair restaurant from acclaimed chef Matt Abé, has rapidly achieved two Michelin stars, an exceptionally rare feat just eight months after its opening. Abé, previously of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, took over the prestigious site once home to the legendary Le Gavroche, which closed its doors in 2024 after 56 years. However, despite the critical acclaim, a recent review highlighted concerns over portion sizes, leaving a diner hungry even after a £195 tasting menu.
The five-course tasting menu at Bonheur, located just off Park Lane, features elegantly plated dishes rooted in classic French culinary techniques. The meal begins with a quiche lorraine, described as an enticing blend of pastry and gruyère with smoked ham. Subsequent courses included a 'mouthful' of melon sorbet, a straightforward piece of Cornish turbot with dulse seaweed, and a saddle cut of Herdwick Hogget – a sheep meat described as between lamb and mutton – with courgette, olive tapenade, and marjoram. Despite the flavour, the Hogget dish was noted for its diminutive size, likened to a large canapé.
The reviewer expressed surprise at being left hungry, a stark contrast to previous experiences at high-end tasting menus. They noted that even after consciously limiting their food intake before the meal, the portions at Bonheur were so small they speculated if they were designed with weight-loss medication trends in mind – a suggestion the restaurant's publicist denied. The dessert courses, including another 'mouthful' of melon sorbet and an Ile Flottante (whipped meringue), did little to satiate the appetite.
Attempts to order an additional steak dish from the seven-course menu were unsuccessful as the kitchen had closed by 10 pm. While staff did offer extra desserts, including double helpings of milk bread and a promised pecan tart that never arrived, the overall experience left the diner craving more substantial food, even suggesting a fast-food meal afterwards. The seven-course menu, priced at £30 more than the five-course option, reportedly includes steak and lobster, which might offer better value for those with a larger appetite.
The opulent beige and gold decor of the Mayfair basement space, redesigned by Abé, was described as unremarkable but functional, with a sliding door offering glimpses into the kitchen. While the individual flavours of the dishes were praised, the review underscores a growing debate within the fine dining sector regarding the balance between culinary artistry, portion control, and value for money, particularly in a city where consumers are increasingly conscious of discretionary spending.