For British travellers seeking a restorative escape from the frenetic pace of Tokyo, the Hakone region in Kanagawa Prefecture offers a tranquil alternative less than two hours away by train. Nestled in the foothills of Mount Fuji, this area is famed for its natural hot springs, or onsen, and traditional inns known as ryokans. The journey from Tokyo to Hakone is straightforward, with direct trains from Shinjuku Station costing approximately £30 each way. Once there, visitors can explore the Owakudani Valley via a cable car, where sulfur vents and the iconic black boiled eggs — cooked in the volcanic waters — await.
The centrepiece of a stay in Hakone is the ryokan experience. The Gora Kadan Hakone, originally built as a summer villa for the imperial family in the 1930s and later converted into a hotel, exemplifies Japanese hospitality. Rooms feature tatami mat flooring, paper screens, and private onsens overlooking forested hills. Meals are served in-room, with multi-course kaiseki dinners including sashimi, yuzu soup, and locally caught crab. Prices for a night at such ryokans start from around £200 per person, including dinner and breakfast. UK travellers should book well in advance, especially during autumn foliage season or cherry blossom spring.
Beyond the ryokan, Hakone offers a hushed atmosphere with art galleries such as the Pola Museum, known for its collection of Impressionist works. The region is part of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, where autumn colours rival those of New England. For those wanting a direct view of Mount Fuji, the sister property Gora Kadan Fuji in Shizuoka Prefecture sits at the mountain's base, with a reception area designed to frame the peak. The area is well-connected via the Hakone Tozan Railway and cable cars, making it easy to navigate without a car.
For UK travellers, Japan remains a visa-free destination for stays up to 90 days, but passports must be valid for the entire stay. The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO) advises taking out comprehensive travel insurance that covers medical evacuation, as healthcare costs in Japan can be high. It also recommends checking the latest travel advice for natural disaster preparedness, as the region is seismically active. Practical tips include carrying cash, as many ryokans and small shops do not accept credit cards, and learning basic onsen etiquette — such as washing thoroughly before entering the baths.
The implications for British tourists are clear: Hakone offers a peaceful, culturally immersive alternative to Tokyo's crowds, with direct flights from London Heathrow to Tokyo Narita or Haneda starting from around £600 return. New routes from UK airports, such as British Airways' expanded service to Tokyo, have made the journey more accessible. For those seeking a restorative break without the hassle of long-haul travel within Japan, Hakone is an ideal choice.