Piccioli ignites the spark that fuses fashion and art, as his debut haute couture collection for Balenciaga bursts onto the Parisian catwalk like a riot of colour. This isn't just a revolution – it's a masterclass in modernity, infused with the essence of tradition. As the late Cristóbal Balenciaga famously said, high fashion was 'mortally wounded' by mass production; now Piccioli is breathing new life into the storied couture house, while staying true to its heritage.
Behind the scenes, Piccioli's meticulous planning paid off in a 'haute couture war room' where 25 years of experience and nine months of development blended with diverse inspirations – from 1961 Balenciaga designs to Spanish Golden Age art and monumental sculptures by Barbara Hepworth. The result is clothing that not only defies the body but creates space and movement, echoing the architectural quality often associated with Hepworth's work.
The collection was a kaleidoscope of bold hues and innovative forms, with runway looks featuring fuchsia puffballs stacked like skyscrapers and pieces saturated in ultraviolet, aniseed, and lavender. Piccioli sees haute couture as 'a world with no maps' – where imagination knows no bounds – and his designs reflect this freedom. Notably, grand trousers took centre stage, feathered, embroidered, or with a dramatic ballgown-scale train, nodding to contemporary women's wear and the need for modern relevance.
Piccioli also pushed the boundaries of technology to enhance traditional made-to-measure methods. 3D scans will be used to create digital adjustments to garment blueprints, but only as a behind-the-scenes secret – the magic should remain visible on the catwalk, where 'all you see is the beauty of a woman in a dress.'
Meanwhile, Silvana Armani presented her second haute couture show for Armani Privé, further cementing her influence within the brand. Having been placed in charge of womenswear as part of her uncle's succession plan, Silvana's collection subtly marked a shift – personal touches were evident, from the absence of small hats to her own preference for trousers for evening wear.