The Picos de Europa mountain range in northern Spain is a true marvel, boasting dramatic peaks, rich biodiversity, and a living culture that defies expectations. Rising to over 2,500 metres west of Bilbao, this rugged terrain presents a landscape of contrasts, with cool, even snowy conditions prevailing at the summits, despite being located in southern Europe.
The region is renowned for its steep slopes and incredible wildlife, including unique subspecies such as the chamois, alongside bears and wolves. Hikers venturing into this terrain can expect to encounter tiny Alpine flowers buzzing with bees and crickets, or spot majestic bearded vultures successfully reintroduced in 2005.
Accommodation within the Picos often takes the form of mountain huts, many of which are off-grid and supplied by mule. One such remarkable refuge is Cabin Verónica, an unlikely structure crafted from a gun turret of a Second World War aircraft carrier, the USS Pulau, transported to its current location in 1961.
For foodies and culture vultures alike, the Picos offer a unique culinary experience, particularly in traditional cheesemaking. Visitors can discover small, stone-walled workshops where local artisans, such as Maria, continue age-old practices passed down through generations. These homemade cheeses are often sold from ancient cabins built by their ancestors.
The journey to the Picos begins with a ferry crossing from the UK to Bilbao or Santander, taking in breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean and offering opportunities for cetacean sightings, including dolphins, orcas, and various whale species.
Throughout history, the Picos de Europa have played a significant role as a centre of resistance, first against Roman rule and later against the Moors, solidifying their reputation as a place of resilience and unique character within Spanish history.