The often-overlooked story of Soviet underwear offers a fascinating window into the changing values and priorities of everyday life behind the Iron Curtain. From the revolutionary idealism of the 1920s to the shortages and scarcity of the 1970s and 80s, the evolution of undergarments in the Soviet Union reflects broader shifts in societal norms and state policies.
Dr. Olga Gurova's meticulous research has uncovered a rich cultural history of underwear production and consumption, from the early days of mass production to the ingenuity displayed by citizens during times of scarcity. Her findings reveal that the 1920s saw a concerted effort to champion 'regime of cleanliness' for the working class, mandating the possession of at least two sets of undergarments changed every 7-10 days.
This drive towards practicality led to the mass production of functional items like long johns, boxers, undershirts, and bras. Early Soviet underwear designs were characterised by their spaciousness and minimal differentiation between male and female styles, reflecting a focus on 'sport' rather than 'sex'. This emphasis on functionality was also reflected in the adoption of bras by Soviet women earlier than in many European nations, as Dr. Gurova observes, echoing the societal push towards physical activity in both factory and domestic settings.
Three distinct periods following the 1920s are identified in Dr. Gurova's research: the 1930s and 40s, marked by a subtle shift towards more feminine underwear designs; the 1950s and 60s, characterised by increased international engagement and consumerism, with Soviet stores offering a wider selection of goods and transforming underwear into a 'means of personal expression'; and the 1970s and 80s, defined by widespread shortages and scarcity.
During this final period, citizens struggled to find well-fitting undergarments, leading to remarkable resilience and ingenuity as they repaired, re-sewed, and repurposed old clothes to create new ones. This phenomenon, Dr. Gurova notes, was not just a coping mechanism but also a means of personalising standard issue items.
Dr. Gurova's work provides a valuable contribution to our understanding of the cultural nuances of everyday life in the Soviet Union and fills an important information gap that emerged during the Cold War. Her upcoming book promises to further enrich our knowledge of this fascinating period, offering insights for historians and cultural researchers alike.
Source: Dr. Olga Gurova, European University in St Petersburg