UK fishers and chefs are increasingly having to adapt their practices and menus as a growing number of Mediterranean fish species migrate into British waters. This shift is attributed to rising sea temperatures, which are creating a new marine environment off the UK coast, particularly in the South West.
Buck Bennett, a crab and lobster fisher from Newquay, has observed a marked increase in species such as red mullet and various types of bream, which were once rare in these waters. He notes that while red mullet has always been present, their numbers have surged recently. This phenomenon is mirrored by an ongoing 'octopus bloom', first identified by the Marine Biological Association, which has seen Mediterranean octopuses thrive in the warmer South West waters. This bloom is having a devastating effect on native shellfish populations, which constitute a significant part of the octopuses' diet.
The economic implications for the fishing industry are considerable. Ian Perkes, a fish merchant in Brixham, highlighted that an estimated 10,000 kg of shellfish are being consumed daily by these octopuses, which also now prey on cuttlefish. The decline in traditional species like cod, mackerel, pollock, and squid, which would typically be abundant at this time of year, is leaving a void. Bennett estimates that adapting fishing gear and methods to target new species could cost individual fishers in excess of £100,000, presenting a substantial financial burden for an industry already facing uncertainty.
In response, the culinary sector is also undergoing a transformation. Jamie Park, chef director for the Adam Handling Collection of restaurants, anticipates a future where menus will feature fewer Cornish crabs and more species from further north, such as those found around the north coast of Wales and Irish waters. Concurrently, Mediterranean species like red mullet are expected to become more prevalent on British plates. Park himself is consulting "Mediterranean encyclopaedias of fish" to better understand and utilise these new arrivals in his kitchens.
This ongoing ecological shift represents a significant challenge and an unprecedented period of adaptation for the UK's fishing and hospitality industries. The long-term effects on marine ecosystems and the livelihoods dependent on them remain uncertain, with experts and industry professionals navigating a rapidly changing environment.