An academic investigation into more than 1,000 fish and shellfish recipes published in the British version of Good Housekeeping magazine over the last century suggests that UK domestic culinary tastes have become significantly narrower.
Ruth Thurstan from the University of Exeter found that while 67 species were included in recipes over 100 years, the "big five" – cod, haddock, tuna, salmon, and prawns – have dominated since the 1970s, making up over 60% of all mentions. Recipes for species such as oysters, flatfish, and herring have seen a decline.
Thurstan identified three broad phases: pre-1970s saw a diverse mix of species, with flatfish, herring, and oysters prominent; the 1970s marked a shift towards the "big five"; and from the 1980s to the present, these five species have been in the majority of recipes.
Historical recipes included dishes like curried whale meat from the 1940s and oyster cocktail from the 1920s and 30s. Thurstan noted that this narrowing reflects what readers were shown and encouraged to cook, rather than a lack of availability for many species.