In a remarkable testament to Ukraine's indomitable spirit, winemakers are defying the ravages of war, cultivating their vineyards and planning for expansion even in the shadow of conflict. The Molchanov family, whose 'Steppe Wines' estate lies perilously close to the Southern Buh river near Mykolaiv, exemplifies this determination, tending their vines amidst unexploded ordnance and the constant threat of violence.
Mykhailo Molchanov and his wife Svitlana relocated to their winery at the outbreak of Russia's full-scale invasion in February 2022, finding themselves caught between opposing forces during intense fighting for Mykolaiv. Their wine cellar served as a bomb shelter during this period, with Mykolaiv's defenders playing a crucial role in preventing Russian forces from advancing towards the strategic Black Sea port of Odesa.
While their proximity to targets like the city's airport and Russian advances on the opposite bank of the river poses significant risks, the Molchanovs consider themselves fortunate. However, the challenges they face extend beyond the immediate threat of war, with adverse weather conditions, disease, pests, and even wildlife – including goats and pigs consuming a substantial portion of their grapes last year – all taking a toll on their crops.
Despite these obstacles, the Molchanovs have increased their vineyard acreage since the invasion began. They currently produce approximately 10,000 bottles annually but aim to boost this figure to between 30,000 and 50,000 over the next decade. Mykhailo Molchanov is optimistic about the potential for Ukrainian wine to gain international recognition, drawing parallels with the growth of Italy's wine industry in the 1960s.
The winemakers are cultivating a range of grape varieties, including internationally recognised Pinot Gris and Cabernet, as well as indigenous Ukrainian grapes such as Telti Kuruk and Odesa Black. They are also actively involved in a cooperative to support local producers, some of whom have suffered significant losses. The Molchanovs envision a future where the region can attract tourists to a developing wine route, including the ancient Greek settlement of Olbia, once security permits.