The wait is over, but it seems the buzz hasn't quite reached London's Chinatown just yet! Uncle Roger's inaugural UK restaurant, Kawan, launched with great fanfare a couple of months ago, capitalising on Nigel Ng's massive online following – a staggering 10 million strong and counting. The prospect of translating digital success into a thriving eatery was undoubtedly tantalising for investors, who must have envisioned hordes of fans flocking to sample dishes like 'Chinatown fried rice' at £15.90 a bowl.
However, our recent visit on a Thursday lunchtime – approximately six weeks post-launch – revealed a decidedly subdued atmosphere. The staff, while pleasant and friendly, seemed to be struggling to keep up with the meagre customer numbers. Where were the queues of Gen Z fans clamouring for 'firecracker rolls' or Gen X parents treating their little ones to 'aji-no-bun' barbecued pork? Instead, we spotted mostly middle-aged couples contemplating menu items like the 'choco-orange ribs', a dish glazed with orange and chocolate, then wok-seared – allegedly inspired by one of Uncle Roger's collaborators, Uncle Guga.
The restaurant's reliance on in-jokes and references from Uncle Roger's online persona is a significant challenge. Let's face it, not everyone will get the 'meme-ness' of it all! The interior design hasn't exactly set hearts racing either – cold, stark, and dated, with comic book wallpaper already showing signs of wear. Even practical elements like the tiny single toilet from the 1970s and serving bowls prone to detaching contribute to a less than ideal dining experience.
The menu is divided into sections, including 'For Niece & Nephew' (small plates), 'Uncle Roger's Takes on British Classics', 'Rice/Noodles', and 'Happy Ending' (desserts). The British classics section – priced higher with items like a £28.90 'Chinese wellington' and 'fish and chips not inspired by Jamie' – features playful jabs at celebrity chefs Jamie Oliver and Gordon Ramsay. One particularly experimental dish, the 'choco-orange ribs', attempts to fuse duck a l'orange with the nostalgic British flavour of chocolate orange. The result? A 'hideous' brown sludge that failed to deliver.
While the 'fried rice from the village' (spicy balachan egg fried rice, seafood and vegetables) at £15.90 was noted as 'very nice', London's Chinatown already offers a vast array of high-quality fried rice options – making Kawan's offering less distinctive. The overall impression is that Uncle Roger's UK restaurant has not yet successfully translated online popularity into a winning formula.