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Dermatologist suggests retinoid alternatives for sensitive skin

A consultant dermatologist recommends alternative ingredients for individuals unable to tolerate retinoids, despite their proven anti-ageing effects.

  • Retinoids are widely recognised as effective for treating visible signs of skin ageing.
  • Many beauty consumers experience discomfort, dryness, redness, or stinging when using retinoids.
  • Alternatives include combinations of peptides, azelaic acid, alpha hydroxy acids, and antioxidants.

For individuals who experience adverse reactions to retinoids, a group of vitamin A-based compounds known for treating visible signs of skin ageing, alternative skincare ingredients are being suggested. Consultant dermatologist Dr Justine Hextall notes that while retinoids are effective, they can be difficult to tolerate, particularly for those with sensitive skin, potentially hindering consistent use.

Dr Hextall advises that if skin cannot consistently tolerate one ingredient, it may be more beneficial to use a combination of other well-evidenced ingredients. She recommends peptides, such as Matrixyl 3000, for collagen support, and neuropeptides like Argireline, to help smooth fine lines. Products containing these ingredients include The Ordinary’s Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides 1% Serum and Skinceuticals’ P-Tiox Serum.

Additionally, Dr Hextall suggests incorporating azelaic acid and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) to brighten dull skin. She also highlights the importance of a good antioxidant, citing Cetaphil’s Advanced Defence Serum as an example, and stresses that adequate sun protection is crucial for any skincare regimen.

What this means for you: If you experience discomfort or adverse reactions to retinoids, alternative ingredients like peptides, azelaic acid, AHAs, and antioxidants may offer suitable options for your skincare routine.

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