Food writer Rachel Roddy has shared a recipe for focaccia sandwiches with mortadella and parmesan cream, offering a simple yet elegant way to elevate casual dining. The dish is presented as a 'family favourite' that transforms indoor TV dinners into a more engaging outdoor experience, echoing a Roman tradition of moving household objects like televisions outside to embrace the warmer months.
The recipe centres around focaccia, a popular Italian flatbread, filled with slices of mortadella and a homemade parmesan cream. For those who prefer a vegetarian option, Roddy suggests a variation featuring parmesan cream, tomato, and green leaves. This approach to dining highlights a shift towards enjoying meals al fresco, a common practice in Italy during the summer, even if it means simply moving a meal to a patio or terrace.
Mortadella, a key ingredient, is a partly cooked sausage with a long and debated history. Its origins are sometimes linked to the Latin word 'mortaio' (mortar), referring to the pounding method used in its preparation, or to 'farcimen murtatum', an ancient Roman sausage flavoured with myrtle berries. While some historical mentions of 'mortadella' exist from the 12th century, the 1600s are often considered a more accurate starting point for the modern understanding of the sausage, with detailed descriptions provided by agronomist Vincenzo Tanara.
Tanara's 17th-century descriptions outlined a specific production process involving two-thirds lean pork, cut into large cubes, 'sharp pounding', stuffing, and cooking at a moderate temperature. He also noted the strict regulations governing the labour-intensive creation of this luxury product. Industrialisation in the 20th century brought significant changes to mortadella production, impacting quality, demand, and export capabilities, often leading to the inclusion of additives to ensure shelf life and maintain its characteristic pink colour.
However, artisanal producers like Artigianquality in Bologna continue to uphold traditional methods. They use high-quality cuts from 100% Italian pigs, primarily from the Bologna region, raised in semi-wild conditions. Their process involves pounding a mix of pork shoulder and minced ham to a paste, incorporating neck fat (lardelli), and seasoning with spices such as mace, cardamom, nutmeg, and sea salt. The mortadella is then hand-tied and slow-cooked in dry air ovens for 24-28 hours, resulting in an 'antique pink' sausage with a firm texture and delicate spice.
The parmesan cream recipe is straightforward: 60g of finely grated parmesan is beaten with four tablespoons of soft cheese or ricotta until creamy. A dash of milk can be added to adjust consistency, and the mixture is seasoned with white or black pepper, salt, and nutmeg. This cream is then spread thinly on focaccia squares or bread rolls, layered with mortadella, and topped with the other half of the bread, creating a simple yet flavourful sandwich.
Source: Rachel Roddy, A Kitchen in Rome