For British travellers weary of crowded resorts, Croatia’s Dalmatian coast offers a glittering alternative – best explored by boat. Layla Nicholson recently spent a week aboard a catamaran, cruising from Split through the sun-drenched islands of Hvar and Brač, discovering that the region’s true charm lies in its secluded bays and small harbour towns.
Split, the gateway to this nautical adventure, is home to ACI Split, part of the largest marina chain in the Mediterranean. With 318 berths and 15 dry berths, it serves as an ideal starting point. Before setting sail, Nicholson took a walking tour of Diocletian’s Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage site, where the hand-rolled makaruni pasta at restaurant Makarun proved a highlight.
The journey continued to the island of Hvar, reputedly the sunniest part of Croatia with around 2,726 hours of sunshine per year. The town of Vrboska, known as ‘Little Venice’ for its canals and arched bridges, retains a quiet charm far removed from the bustle of its Italian namesake. A speedboat ride to the uninhabited island of Palmaziana, part of the Pakleni archipelago, offered an exclusive dining experience at a restaurant run by the Meneghello family, serving traditional Hvarska Gregada – a fish and potato soup.
On Brač, the shifting sands of Zlatni Rat beach are a major draw, but the Stina winery, one of the closest vineyards to the sea in the world, left a lasting impression. The tour and tasting are within walking distance of the promenade. Nicholson noted that mornings in Dalmatia are marked by the tradition of espresso al fresco, often accompanied by a cigarette and a lengthy chat before work.
For UK travellers considering a similar trip, the Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO) currently advises that Croatia is a safe destination, though standard precautions apply. British passport holders can visit visa-free for up to 90 days in any 180-day period, but must ensure their passport is valid for the duration of their stay. Sailing charters vary widely in cost; a week-long catamaran cabin can start from around £800–£1,500 per person depending on the season. Travel insurance should cover sailing activities, including potential seasickness and any medical emergencies, as the European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) may not cover repatriation or private yacht-related incidents.