Siberian Trek Goes Off-Rails: Author's Icy Journey Amidst Russia's Invasion
Sophie Turner
Charlie Walker's latest travelogue, 'On Thin Ice', recounts a perilous 2022 Siberian expedition that coincided with Russia's invasion of Ukraine. The book details his encounters with locals and the increasing scrutiny from Russian authorities.
- Charlie Walker attempted a 1,000-mile sub-zero trek across frozen Siberia in early 2022.
- His journey began as Russia launched its full-scale invasion of Ukraine, leading to FCO warnings against travel.
- Walker documented the views of ordinary Russians on the conflict, encountering widespread support for Kremlin narratives.
- He faced increasing surveillance from the FSB, particularly as his destination, Tiksi, was a military base.
- The book highlights the extreme conditions, local hospitality, and the dangers of travelling in a police state.
The icy vastness of northern Siberia proved no match for British adventurer Charlie Walker's determination as he embarked on a treacherous 1,000-mile trek across frozen landscapes in early 2022. Unbeknownst to him, his expedition coincided with Russia's full-scale invasion of Ukraine, an event that would soon complicate his journey beyond measure.
Walker landed in Yakutsk in late February, intent on traversing the Lena River and Laptev Sea to Tiksi, a port town situated near a military base. Temperatures plummeted as low as -50C, but it was not just the sub-zero conditions that threatened his survival – news of Russia's invasion into Ukraine broke as he prepared to set off.
Ignoring Foreign Office warnings against travel to Russia, Walker pressed on, seeing an opportunity to document the perspectives of ordinary Russian citizens far removed from the conflict. He navigated ice roads, known as 'zimniki', and endured harsh nights in his tent, occasionally sharing meals with locals who offered him traditional remedies.
Walker's encounters with Siberian residents revealed a stark divide between those willing to discuss the Ukraine conflict and those entrenched in Kremlin propaganda. Many Russians believed Ukraine was corrupt, run by Nazis, or that President Putin had saved the country from instability in the 1990s. Walker documented these views, even as he attracted the attention of Russia's Federal Security Service (FSB), who saw him as a potential threat to national security.
As the expedition turned into a high-stakes encounter with a police state, Walker found himself caught between his desire for adventure and the risks of independent travel in a country under international sanctions. His journey highlighted the complexities of navigating geopolitics in the most inhospitable environments on Earth.
Why this matters: This account offers a rare glimpse into the lives and opinions of ordinary Russians during a pivotal moment in recent history, providing valuable context for understanding the broader geopolitical landscape. It underscores the risks involved for British citizens travelling in regions subject to FCDO warnings.
What this means for you: What this means for you: For UK travellers, this story serves as a stark reminder of the critical importance of adhering to FCDO travel advice. Currently, the FCDO advises against all travel to Russia, and British nationals should not attempt to travel there. Travel insurance policies are typically invalidated if you travel against FCDO advice, meaning you would not be covered for medical emergencies, evacuation, or other unforeseen circumstances. The visa requirements for Russia remain complex, and entry can be denied or revoked without clear reason, especially for those perceived as engaging in activities beyond tourism.