The quest for the perfect scone – light, fluffy, and utterly scrumptious – is a goal many of us strive for in our own kitchens. But with so much advice out there, it's easy to feel overwhelmed and uncertain about where to start. That's why we've spoken to two leading experts in the field: Verena Lochmuller from Ottolenghi and Anna Higham of London's Quince bakery, who share their insider knowledge on achieving this baking ideal.
According to Lochmuller, a light hand is essential when mixing ingredients. She advises using a knife to gently fold in the fat, allowing for a few lumps along the way – they're not a problem, she assures us. It's also crucial to check the freshness of leavening agents like baking powder and bicarbonate of soda, as old products can hinder the scone's rise and texture. When it comes to liquids, buttermilk, kefir or soured cream diluted with a little water are her top choices – they contribute beautifully to a tender crumb.
Higham explains that liquid absorption is affected by factors like weather and flour age, so it's not always wise to follow recipes blindly. Instead, bakers should assess the dough's feel and adjust accordingly. A wetter dough is often preferable, despite common misconceptions about leading to a heavy scone – but adding liquid gradually is key to preventing an overly wet mixture. Lochmuller also suggests ditching gentle kneading altogether, instead patting the dough down on a floured surface before cutting.
When it comes to baking itself, both experts stress the importance of precision. Lochmuller advocates for a minimum oven temperature of 200C (fan), dismissing lower temperatures as insufficient for proper scone development. Higham suggests testing for readiness with a skewer – similar to checking a sponge cake – aiming for an internal temperature of 92C if using a thermometer, to ensure they're cooked through without drying out.
But it's not just about technique – Lochmuller and Higham also encourage adventurous flavour experimentation. Higham suggests combining cheeses like cheddar, blue and parmesan with smoked paprika, cayenne and mustard powder for a 'devilled cheese' scone. Lochmuller champions herbs, spices (such as za'atar), various cheeses and even brie for savoury options – or try incorporating smashed cold roast potatoes for added texture. For those with a sweet tooth, Lochmuller recommends dried blueberries or strawberries for bursts of sweetness, with a touch of polenta in the flour for crunch.