Calvin Klein has undergone a significant shift in its design philosophy over the past two years since Veronica Leoni took the helm. The Italian designer, a philosophy graduate, has moved the brand towards a minimalist aesthetic, featuring slip dresses, simple coats, slim skirts, and crisp T-shirts, a style Leoni terms the “discipline of removal.” This season, Leoni’s muse was artist Georgia O’Keeffe, with a checked pattern from O’Keeffe’s wardrobe appearing on a wrap coat.
Meanwhile, Michael Kors showcased a collection deeply influenced by modernism. Staged at the Museum of Modern Art, the show included glossy black disc earrings reminiscent of Alexander Calder’s mobiles. Kors, who recently attended a Calder retrospective in Paris, stated his collection was indebted to the artist. Other pieces included an evening dress with crescent-shaped edges, an homage to Matisse’s cut-outs, and a pencil skirt with black and white stripes, nodding to Carmen Herrera.
Kors expressed his admiration for “the boldness of modernism and the optimism of it,” shifting from last season’s glamour to a more artistic sensibility. The collection featured colours such as tobacco, black, and moss green. The show also served as a remembrance on the 25th anniversary of 9/11, with Kors describing it as a tribute to New York City’s resilience.