Renowned British artist David Hockney has long been celebrated not only for his groundbreaking art but also for his instantly recognisable and influential personal style. From his early days of bold colour combinations and striking spectacles to his later years of tailor-made suits paired with unexpected footwear, Hockney's approach to fashion has consistently reflected his artistic flair and independent spirit.
Hockney's journey into distinctive dressing began in his youth, with a self-portrait at 16 already showcasing a strong sense of colour and statement glasses. The 1960s saw the emergence of key elements of his signature look: the peroxide blonde hair, adopted after seeing a 'blondes have more fun' advertisement, and the transition to his iconic round spectacles. As the decades progressed, his wardrobe expanded to include vibrant rugby shirts, brightly coloured suits, and perfectly crumpled trench coats, solidifying a look that was both bohemian and sophisticated.
Much like other artistic luminaries whose personal style became an extension of their work, Hockney effectively transformed himself into an artwork. This unique panache did not go unnoticed, earning him a place on Vanity Fair’s Best Dressed List in 1986. He meticulously documented his evolving style through over 300 self-portraits, often featuring him in red braces, flat caps, checked shirts, or tweed suits, frequently accompanied by a paintbrush or a cigarette.
Hockney's seemingly haphazard yet impactful use of colour, a central theme in his artwork, became a significant draw for the fashion world. Designers were captivated by his ability to look striking without appearing overly styled or meticulously put together. Christopher Bailey, during his tenure at Burberry in 2013, drew inspiration from Hockney, recalling seeing him in a cream linen suit with a 'perfect green paint smudge'. Similarly, Paul Smith, who created a Hockney-inspired collection in 2008, admired the artist's use of 'very tonal colours that fought each other and looked very feisty together'.
An icon of 1960s and 70s bohemia, Hockney's unconsidered and spontaneous approach to fashion stands in stark contrast to today's highly curated celebrity styles. An anecdote from Smith's wife, Pauline Denyer, who attended the Royal College of Art with Hockney, perfectly encapsulates this spirit: he famously caused an 'absolute outrage' at graduation by wearing a gold lamé jacket and sporting dyed blonde hair instead of the traditional mortar board and gown. His enduring influence is evident in the current resurgence of items like the rugby shirt and even in the availability of 'dupes' of his paint-splattered sweatshirts online.
Even into his later years, Hockney maintained his unique sartorial choices, often opting for suits from a tailor in Cannes, worn interchangeably for painting and gallery openings. His playful spirit remained, famously evidenced by his choice of bright yellow Crocs when meeting King Charles in 2022. This consistent blend of artistic vision and personal expression has ensured David Hockney's place not just as a pivotal artist, but as an enduring and unconventional fashion icon.